The way the sensor works, is to sense a resistance between the two electrodes in the sensor. I recommend to use a resistor with wire leads attached to it, readily found at Radio Shack. Unless you have very specific knowledge of the computer circuit, it is bad practice to "short" the across a sensor input because, depending on the processor and the "robustness" of the circuit design, this could lead to an eventual processor failure. The paper clip works, I'm sure, but I HIGHLY recommend just using a paper clip paper clip, which is a "short". Yes, definitely do tape things over and secure the loose connector. The resistor leads fit into the connector sockets nicely. Therefore, I recommend to use a resistor of between 1K ohms to 2.2K ohms, such as 2.2K ohm Radio Shack part # 271-1121. I had this problem with my Saturn "coolant" light, and did some experimenting, and found that the sensor is looking for a resistance of less than about 5K ohms to shut off the light. When the electrodes are exposed instead to air (or possibly to very pure, clean de-ionized water, not normally found in a radiator), then there is insufficient conduction and the light comes on (after about a 10-second delay). When the sensor is immersed in 50/50 antifreeze (along with some rust and dissolved minerals to be expected in radiator fluid), it senses a finite resistance and the computer tells the "coolant" light to shut off (immediately). Keep an eye on your temperature gauge and check your coolant level regularly. Keep in mind that this method does disable a key safety device that is designed (poorly) to warn you in the even of a coolant leak. That warning really has been irritating me. Sorry this was long but I hope that it helps someone. Also it's a good idea to secure the harness to something nearby so that it doesn't flop around when you are driving.Īll done. If all works well, use electrical tape to seal up the end of the harness so moisture doesn't get in. If the coolant light doesn't go away you may have a break in the wire somwhere or a bad connection to the jumper.ĥ. The coolant level sensor has only one job and that is to tell the computer when coolant is low so you don't have to worry that you may be causing any other problems by doing this. When you insert the jumper the message should go away imediately. You can also insert the jumper while the car is running (be careful, the coolant bottle will be hot) because the harness is removed from the sensor the coolant warning should already be displayed. Start your car and ensure that the warning is no longer displaying. push the jumper you just made into the end of the harness connector.Ĥ. Find a large paper clip and use needle nose plyers to make a "staple" shaped jumper that is about 1/4 inch wide (about the distance between the two contacts on the harness) and about 3/8 inch long.ģ. Unplug the sensor harness from the bottom of the coolant bottle.Ģ. I plan on replacing the bottle eventually but right now money is tight and I don't need the sensor to tell me what my own eyes and my car's temperature gauge can tell me for now. I found a way to bypass the sensor for a BMW though and thought I would try it. I couldn't find a tread involving a Saturn that talked about a solution other than having a tech charge me lots of money to replace the whole bottle. (all completely normal) I had a strong feeling that the coolant level sensor in the coolant bottle was bad and had read about how it needed to be replaced by a tech and all but I wonderred if there was a way to defeat the sensor since I check my levels all the time anyway because the sensor was really just giving false info anyway. The car runs perfectly, never overheats and the coolant bottle is always full to the "cold fill level" line when cold and slightly higher than that when hot due to the expansion of the fluid. I have a 2005 Ion that had been displaying the "coolant" message for quite some time.
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